Some people think it’s a pain to move hotels once you get settled into a new city, but I pack really light and like seeing different neighborhoods. On my recent trip to Argentina, I stayed in four Buenos Aires hotels in two weeks. Scoring a discount for being a “lonely” traveler (I have to assume they meant “solo”) was just one of the highlights.
My first stay ended up being cut short, since we arrived in Argentina a day later than expected. I don’t have much to stay about my first hotel, the Dazzler Libertad, in the La Recoleta neighborhood, but it was great to have a room reserved so I could throw my bags down after such a long trip and pass out. The only photo I took was of all the water I drank after two days of travel and then too much red wine my first night, pictured above with my friend Cathy. I’d been dying to meet her ever since she was a lifeline when both of us were living as expats in rural Latin America. (She still lives in Mendoza, which I hope to make it to next time.) The Dazzler served mostly business travelers, and I did enjoy being close to the Avenida de 9 de Julio, which claims to be the widest boulevard in the world. I believe it — it’s enormous!
On day two, I moved to Palermo Soho, to the wonderful Fierro Hotel. Its enormous beds were so comfortable that I slept until noon! Really, they rivaled the beds at the Wynn here in Vegas, one of my favorite hotels, mostly because of their fluffy, comfy beds. At Fierro, I had the pleasure of meeting Martin Rosberg, who owns the hotel, and a few other interesting projects, with other members of his family. We had espresso and a few chocolates (the Argentinians love their sweets so much that it’s sometimes hard to find anything else to eat in the afternoons). We had our early evening merienda out in the garden, pictured here. The showers in the rooms were amazing, as was the food in the Spanish restaurant, Hernan Gipponi. I was sad to go!
From there, I moved on to the Hollywood section of Palermo, to a charming guest-room sort of accommodation at the Baucis Hotel. I ended up really liking it there — the staff was friendly, and it felt less like a hotel and more like I was staying in someone’s home. For such a long trip, it was nice to have some time not feeling like I was in a hotel. And hey, I got a discount for being a “lonely” traveler!
My last hotel was the adorably artsy Moreno Hotel, in San Telmo, near where my dear friend, Andi, was getting married. I somehow came out with no photos of the hotel itself, but I did snap some pics of the famous weekly market that happens just steps away every Sunday. We spent a wonderful afternoon there after checking out of the hotel, awaiting our evening flight home. It was a crisp sunny fall day, perfect for navigating the crowded tables.
Our final meal: steak, of course, at El Desnivel, a local parrilla grill that we easily found, due to the many eager customers fighting to get in. (Thank you, Ayngelina, for the recommendation!) We figured that was a good sign and somehow got a table. (You can also grab a steak sandwich to go.) I loved the lively atmosphere, which reminded me of Sunday brunch in New York. Everyone was drinking red wine or beer, seemingly without a care in the world. And really, don’t go in there with any stress at all — Argentinian service is notoriously slow, and no one is going to rush on a Sunday, for better or worse! So step inside, relax, and order a drink. You’ll have plenty of time to figure out which one of the many types of meats you want. Ask for a side of the chimichuri sauce — I usually don’t like any sauce on my meat, but the one’s hotness impressed even this spice snob from New Mexico. I loved how strong a kick it had!
Where to stay in Buenos Aires:
Dazzler Libertad, La Recoleta
Fierro Hotel, Palermo Soho
Baucis Hotel, Palermo Hollywood
Moreno Hotel, Sam Telmo
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